A Bricklayers Personal Protective Equipment (PPE)

With Health and Safety laws getting stricter worldwide, bricklayers need to move with the times. I have memories of falling through rotten scaffolding planks, being zapped from concrete mixers and using a 15" angle grinder by holding on its wobbly guard, knowing that it was rubbing on the blade because it was too hot to hold. As you get older you realize the importance of looking after yourself. PPE should be an integral part of your kit.

What is personal protective equipment (PPE)?

Personal protective equipment (PPE) is any clothing or equipment that provides protection to the wearer from a potential risk.

What does this include for a bricklayer?

PPE is relatively similar throughout the building industry. Bricklayers don't wear too much for the majority of the day, their steel toe boots and prehaps gloves being adequate. Many commercial sites require hi visiblity clothing along with a hard hat. Certain power tool use requires ear and eye protection, even a respirator.

Here are some examples of quality products that you should have in your kit at a minimum.

You will notice that is not expensive, but you don't want to always be replacing items. A good way to look after your PPE is to keep it separate from your hand tools. Sports bags work well to keep it portable and protected.

Gloves

Not all bricklayers wear  gloves, if you want to go without that's fine but just expect to need a bit of time for your hands to harden up. If you do want to give gloves ago look for gloves that have been made for handling masonry. Normally they will be nice thin for good feeling when working with brick. This is achieved with a puncher proof latex coating. And remember even the very best gloves will quickly wear out.
Click here to view a decent pair of gloves on Amazon

Safety Glasses

When using angle grinders or brick saws be sure to use safety glasses. For a long time I had convinced myself that wearing them was more dangerous because I couldn't see clearly. This was solved in two ways. First buying a pair that were anti fogging and second looking after the glasses so they don't get scratched. Now I realize it's not worth taking a chance on your eye sight.
Click here to view the safety glasses I use on Amazon

Ear Muffs

Again many young guns think they can get away with not using ear muffs every now and then.  Hearing damage though is accumulative, meaning that every time you don't use your muffs you will be damaging your hearing. Get a pair that fit well and are comfortable for long periods of time. If your company  does a lot of commercial work where hard hats are mandatory think about getting some clip on ear muffs.

Click here to see some Earmuffs on Amazon

Work Boots

If there is one item on this list to make sure you get good quality, this is it. It will cost you more than $100 but being comfortable all day is worth it. Make sure that they have steel toes, good ankle support, and grippy soles. A good pair will take a week or so to break the leather in but from then on you shouldn't notice them. I prefer slip on rather than laces just because they are easy to keep clean.

Click here to see an awesome pair of work boots on Amazon 

Hard Hat

A hard hat is generally worn on larger construction sites where multiple trades are working. Every time I get back on a site where I need to wear my hard hat it takes a morning to get used to the new head clearance. But don't a few bangs on the scaffold frames convince you to take it off. I prefer the hats with the quick release harness because they are easy to fit and are comfortable.

Click here to see a good hard hat on Amazon

Respirator

Now a respirator might seem over the top. But if you have a lot of cutting to do the dust gets every where, including up your nose. Wearing a simple dust mask or a respirator stops this making it much more comfortable.

Click here to see a multiple use respirator on Amazon

High Visibility Clothing

High Visibility gear is now needed on most construction sites. As a result many bricklaying companies have a hi-vis shirt as part of their company uniform. It's good to have a warm jacket in high vis as well. I look for one with zip up pockets and a hood.

Click here to see an example on Amazon

What is the Best type of Vehicle for a Bricklayer?

Need to buy a new vehicle to get to work? 

Maybe you have been thinking about starting your own Masonry business, and need a start up work vehicle. What should you buy?

Most likely you will be tossing up between a small truck, a van, or a pick-up truck (Ute). Which best fits the needs of a Bricklayer? Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of all three.

Truck

A small truck provides a lot of practicalities. The most obvious is loading capacity. With the help of a couple of storage boxes, all hand and power tools can be tidily and safely put away, leaving plenty of room for your concrete mixer, bricksaw and even materials. The ease of access is great, especially if you get a truck with small wheels, which lowers the tray height.

On the down side a truck is certainly not the cheapest option for starting out a masonry business. The back of a truck offers little security or weather protection. It also has limited signage space.

Van

The pros and cons are almost swapped when comparing a van with a truck. You normally pickup a older van for a good price. It is good to know if your van is out of sight, it is nice and secure and tools won't be getting wet. If you are big on advertising through signage a van offers lots of blank canvas space.

A van has its challenges. It's not always easy to squeeze things in, especially if you pick up materials. Although vans can be fitted with nifty shelving setups, access to all of your tools can be a hard because of the enclosed space. If you decide to get a van, choose one with double sided doors and a tow bar to hook up a trailer.

Pickup Truck (Ute)

Not a common choice for a bricky is the pickup. It has excellent ease of access. A low tray makes getting heavy items on not so challenging. Also the mileage is generally a lot better in a pickup than a van or truck.

The pickup truck will challenge you for storage room. Trays are normally a lot smaller than a trucks so a towbar and trailer is a must.  Canopies can be added for protection, but the height restriction pretty much makes it unworkable, so don't go down that line.

Conclusion

The two that make the most sense are the truck and van, pickups have too many limitations. The main type of work you do and perhaps your location should determine whether you go for a truck or van. If you supply a lot of your own materials, bricks, blocks, mortar, reinforcing steel go for a truck. Maybe you commonly work labor only and in an area where tools go missing, a van would be a good decision here.

8 Tips to Improve Bricklaying Technique

Are you a Bricklaying Apprentice or DIYer and wanting to improve your technique?  

Want to improve your quality? 

Want to lay bricks faster?

Try these 8 simple tips:

1)  Setup your Brick Stacks and Mortar Boards in an Efficient Place

Don't try and make super long brick stacks. Try to pile them about 3ft (1m) long, and then place a mortar board in between each stack.
Keep a 3ft (1m) lane between your brick stacks and the wall you are building. This allows enough room for working comfortably but also means everything, ie bricks and mortar, are within a step or two. Time is saved not walking twice as far.

2)  Position yourself for Brick Laying 

It's amazing how many new apprentices try to lay their bricks as they stand facing the wall.  Stand parallel with it, keeping your trowel hand on the outward side.
This allows you to sight your brick placement along the string line and also means you don't need to turn 180 degrees to pick up a new brick.

3)  Furrow your Mortar Bed Correctly

Furrowing is running your trowel  through your bed creating a cavity in the middle.
There are two common ways to do this. First keeping your trowel inline with the bricks, lifting it over the line and then pressing down into it. 
The second is holding your trowel perpendicular to the bricks, coming underneath the string line and using the tip of the trowel to Furrow from the side.
I prefer the later. Not only is it  the fastest way to do it, but it also makes it easier to keep your trowel off the string line.

4)  Picking-up Bricks and Loading your Trowel 

Make an effort to pick up the brick the way that it is layed in the wall. This saves you spinning it which costs time.

Now some bricklayers will tell you to load your trowel with the excess mortar cut off from the last brick layed. This tends to work well with wider bricks but not so with thinner ones, at best only leaving enough mortar for one edge of the brick (a speed joint).

Some times the Pick and Dip Method can work well, it involves pressing a brick into an unfarrowed bed, squeezing the mortar up into the perp joint. So no need to butter the brick. However you do create large snots on the backside of the wall, and can fill up the cavity with wasted mortar. Inspectors might hit you up regarding this.

Another good  technique to learn is called the "no look grab". You pick up a brick with one hand and at the same time load your trowel from your mortar board. You use your peripheral vision to line up both. It is only slightly slower than using excess mortar from the last brick and means you will always have enough mud to butter with a full joint.

5) Buttering with a Full Joint 

Many bricklayers use a speed joint or in other words they just butter one edge of the brick and place it in the wall. However buttering like this is more likely to leave holes when it's pointed and it also weakens the moisture barrier.
Learn to butter with a full joint. It's done in three swipes, the whole face then the two edges. If you find yourself with not enough mud from the last bricks excess try learning the technique  in tip four.

6) Laying the Brick to the Line

As you position the brick into place use your palm and fingers and with even pressure rub the brick down to the line. 
Try to avoid using your trowel or handle to  tap the brick into position. This will just wear out your trowel faster but more importantly it's slower than using pressure from your hand.

7)  Cutting off the Excess Mortar 

As you are laying the brick down to the line,  keep your trowel in the position to cut off excess mortar but just hold it there. This gives an edge for the bottom of the brick to be laid against. 
When the brick is in position cut the excess mortar off. Doing this only once helps to avoid smearing on the face of the brick.

8)  Keep the Proper Mind Set

When you watch a good bricklayer you'll notice that they don't look like they're moving super quick. It's not about trying to be fast, rather real speed comes from focusing on efficiency of movement and rhythm. 
Try to get into a pattern of movement and then slowly refine those movements to build speed. Keep your mind focused on this and in time you will be laying bricks like a pro.

What is Best for Bricklaying Tools, a Bag, Box or Bucket?

There are three main ways that a Bricklayer carries around his Hand Tools. Either in a Tool bag, a Toolbox, or in a Bucket.
If you are wondering what to put your new tools into, which would be best?
Each have their pros and cons. To try and give a fair comparison let's review the top of the line product of each.

For the Bag, the Box and the Bucket let's consider:

• Protection
• Mobility
• Storage Capacity
• Water-tightness
• Clean-ability 

Tool Bag  Stanley FatMax Open Mouth Rigid

The traditional bricklayers tool bag is made from canvas with leather handles and a reinforced leather bottom. More modern bags like the Stanley FatMax add a whole new level of accessibility and professionalism.

Protection:
Normally a tool bags weakness. Tools stored on external pockets will be easily damaged as the bag is hit by random flying bricks. The FatMax is made from 600 denier fabric (tough stuff) meaning tools packed inside are pretty  protected.

Mobility: 
The FatMax is awesome. With two sturdy  handles, moving the bag around the site is effortless. Levels can be layed horizontally on top, making it possible to move all your tools with one hand.

Storage Capacity:
Length: 19" (50 cm)
Width: 11" (30 cm)
Height: 11" (29 cm)
Volume: 11 gal (44 l)
Great for getting all your tools in. The FatMax has one main storage space, unlike the expensive Veto Pro Pac, which is split into two a struggles to fix a single trowel. It's also good to see a bag without thousands of pockets, to small or tight to do anything.

Water-tightness:
When the Stanley is all zipped up it is waterproof, but it's not a great idea to leave it out in the rain. The injected polypropylene base does a good job of stopping water transferring into the bag and rusting out tools.

Clean-ability:
If it becomes fill of dust, it can be a bit difficult to clean out. Turning it upside down and giving it a brush out normally keeps it clean enough.


Click here to view the Staley FatMax Tool Bag on Amazon

 

Toolbox  Dewalt Tough System Case 400

The traditional toolbox is made from wood or metal. These days they are made from structural plastics making them lighter. The Dewalt Tough System cases are made from 4mm structural foam making it strong as well.

Protection:
Hit this box with a sledgehammer and you will  struggle to do any real damage. They call it the tough box for a reason. Excellent security features as well making your valuable tools safe.

Mobility:
A little bit awkward getting it around site or in and out of the vehicle. It does have a solid central handle which makes it possible. 

Storage Capacity:
Length: 21" (54 cm)
Width: 14" (36 cm)
Height: 16" (40 cm)
Volume: 20 gal (77 l)
This is a decent sized box, and has no trouble storing a brickies hand tools. The top tray helps to keep things organized and stops pencils getting broken.

Water-tightness:
The Tough System box has built in waterproof seals. You could put the hose on this thing and no water would get through. Tools need to be dried before being put away.

Clean-ability:
Any toolbox is super easy to clean. Hose out, dry with a cloth. Finished 30 seconds.

Click here to view the Dewalt Tough System on Amazon

 

Tool Bucket  Bucket Boss The Bucketeer BTO

A lot of bricklayers simply use a Bucket to store their gear. Rubber buckets are favored for their durability. Now tool organizers like the Bucket Boss The Bucketeer BTO can be added to a Bucket to keep tools tidy.

Protection:

A Bucket doesn't provide much protection. As soon as it is tipped up, out spill the tools ready to be crushed. If you do use a Bucket for tools make sure it's not the same one for your mud. That way tools won't be lying out somewhere all day.

Mobility:

The Bucket is great for moving tools around. However it is best not to try and balance levels on the rim under the pail, many have slid off to their death.

Storage Capacity:

Diameter: 10" (26 cm) 
Height: 17" (44 cm)
Volume: 5 gal (19 liters)
Although the good old bucket seems a lot smaller than the others when you compare the numbers, it is amazing what you can fit inside. The Bucket Boss gives a nice storage place to your smaller tools making them easier to get to.

Water-tightness:

Buckets are obviously not great for keeping tools dry, but on the up side once tools are wet they tend to dry a lot faster in a bucket than a bag or box.

Clean-ability:

Not to challenging, just take the Bucket Boss off, brush it out. Next clean out the real Bucket with a hose, easy and fast.

Click here to view the Bucket Boss Bucketeer on Amazon

Conclusion

Although this is probably the least popular among bricklayers, you can't beat a decent toolbox. 
That's what I have used for a number of years now and I've been real happy with it. You do need to keep it organized, but it's worth it. 

Need some help filling your box, this Tool List contains the minimum needed for a around the home project.

My Choice for Best Brick and Block Trowel

Over the years, I have used many trowels - some great, some rubbish. My very first was an old WHS and I loved that thing. It slowly wore down and was replaced by others. I do still own a few  vintage WHS, Tyzack and Bowdon trowels but they just sit there on display in my office. When it comes to what I use to lay, I have now narrowed it down to my two favorites. One for brick work the other for blocks.

An earlier article looks at The Most Popular Brick Trowel. Another focused not so much on the brand but rather on what Size, Pattern and Handle to go for. But here's what I like to use:

My Brick Trowel

W.Rose

Wide London Pattern

10"

ProForm Handle

The high quality steel blade of the Rose is great for bricklaying. It sort of reminds me of the old style WHS. It doesn't have as much flexibility as some other trowels, but works fine for bricks, especially only being a 10". 
The London pattern allows for a bit more precision when spreading a bed and you can't beat the ProForm grips. 

Click here to view on Amazon

My Block Trowel

Marshalltown

Philadelphia Pattern

11"

DuraSoft Handle

When laying blocks it is important to have a bit more flex in the blade, this gives more feeling and control. The Marshalltown is perfect for this.
 The only downside to the increased flexibility is they tend to wear out a bit quicker than the Roses. The  Philadelphia pattern allows for more mud to be loaded. 
I use a relatively small 11" for blocks because it works well in a bucket. The Durasoft handles are the best for grip.

Click here to view on Amazon

25 Tools you Would Find in a Bricklayers Kit

Looking to buy a gift for a Bricklayer and wondering what to buy?
Just starting out in your Bricklaying career and needing to setup your tool box?

Here are 25 tools you will be sure to find in any Brickies kit. Included are only hand tools, power tools are coming and PPE can be found here
The pictures show examples of top of the range gear. Remember it's generally better to spend a little more money to get something that you are happy with and will last.
Click images to see prices on Amazon

The Trowels

1) Brick Trowel

Used for spreading mortar and laying bricks or blocks.

Click here to see which is the best Trowel

2) Gauging Trowel (Round Nose)

Smaller than the brick trowel. It's used for installing fire bricks or laying bricks in a tight spot. 

3) Pointing Trowel

Used often in restoration brick work to create a struck joint, but also handy for filling any holes.

The Levels

4) 48" Spirit Level
The level of choice for a Bricklayer. Used for corner building in both brick and block work.
Click here to see what is the best Spirit Level

5) 24" Spirit Level
Used for corner building in tight situations.

6) Torpedo Level
Used mainly with detailed masonry for example, brick capping or soldiers. Normally 10".

The Hammers

7) Club / Lump Hammer

Used with a masonry chisel, or for driving in line pins. Can also be used to hit knockouts in blocks.

8) Claw Hammer

Used for driving in nails and fixing up builders mistakes. Never use with masonry chisels or for hitting masonry.

9) Brick Hammer

Used as a quick way to cut bricks, especially during restoration work. Also an easy way to trim them down to size.

The Chisels

10) Bolster

Used for cutting bricks and knocking off old mortar beds, especially on restoration work.

11) Plugging Chisel

Used on restoration work to clean out old joints without chipping the surface of any bricks.

The Pointers

12) S Bend Jointer

Used most often for perpendicular joints on cinder blocks, or if bricks are finished with a half round joint.

13) Sled Runner

Used for bed joints on blocks or bricks. It helps keep the joint straight.

14) Flat Tuck Pointer

Used for filling holes and smoothing joints after raking on brick work.

15) Joint Raker

Used for raking out joints on brick work to a certain depth.

The Measures

16) Tape Measure

Used for measuring the length of walls and marking the gauge of brick courses.

17) Folding Rule

Used for measuring cuts on a brick or block. Unlike a tape it doesn't matter if the rule gets wet. 

18) Sliding Bevel

Used for marking angles on bricks, for things like brick arches. Or for keeping an angle when laying bricks, like in a brick sill.

19) Square

Used for setting out corners and keeping masonry square.

20) Builders Pencil

Used for marking bricks or blocks.

The Line Gear

21) Builders Line

The brickies best friend. Used for laying masonry straight and accurately.

22) Line Pins

Used for pinning a line to brick or block work.

23) Line Blocks

Used for attaching a line to the corner of masonry or to a profile.

The Brushes

24) Soft Brush

Used for removing barbs or excess mortar after jointing.

25) Scrub Brush

Used for cleaning up tools when finished.

If you are a DIY'er just wanting the basic's for one or two projects, please check out the Tool List here.